Joel wanted more traction in the rear of his 95 Nissan Pathfinder and opted for a LockRight.   The Nissan H233b rear axle called for the 3220 LockRight unit.    I looked on line and found this unit at a number of places for around $235.   

If you have any questions about the handling or performance of the LockRight, you can e-mail Joel HERE.

Nissan LockRight Instruction Manual

LockRight parts view and how it works

Here it is, there's not much to it and the box is suprisingly small.
The first step is to raise and support the rear of the vehicle.   Then you remove the rear wheels.
Drain the fluid from the rear diff.
Here you can see the magnet on the drain plug.   You can see some metal shavings on it.   This is not abnormal.

Remove the four nuts that attach the alxe to the backing plate and pull the whole brake, axle and backing plate assembly out slightly.

You can disconnect the brake lines, but in this case there was enough slack to get the job done without removing them.   It also saved us the trouble of bleeding the brakes later.

The rear swaybar was removed and put aside.   We ended up leaving it off the vehicle so that some rear end flex could be gained.
Here you can see the arrows pointing to the three mounting points for the rear sway bar on the passenger side.   The drivers side is the same.
The rear drive line was marked, then disconnected and strapped out of the way.
The electrical plug that was on the rear diff was disconnected.
The nuts that hold the third member to the rear axle were taken off and the third member was removed.  You can see the ends of the axles here also.
The third member was secured in place and we proceded to take it apart.
The adjusting rings were marked for position, as was the keeper on the top.   The caps were marked then removed.
Here you can see the bearing adjusters with the caps removed.
Once the carrier was removed from the third member, the ring gear was removed.   Once the bolts were removed, it was easy to tap off with a rubber mallet.
Next the inner ring of bolts was removed from the carrier.   In this picture there are still 2 in place.    The two sides of the carrier were marked so they can also go back together the same way.

The carrier was then split. 
We removed the crosspin assembly from the carrier half.
The spider gears were then removed from the cross pin assembly.
The first half of the lock right was them placed on the side gear.  The pins and springs were greased up and put into place.
A spacer was put in then the cross pin assembly was placed back into the carrier half the same way it was removed.
Another spacer and the other half of the lock right unit was put in place, being sure that the pins and springs were all in place.
To get the ring gear back on, it is easiest to warm it up.   This allows you to turn it on the carrier assembly to make the bolts line up.   Once warmed up, it will drop right on and spin with no problem.
The carrier was put back into the third member and everything was set back to the same specs it was when it was removed.   The caps were re-installed, and the lock right was checked to make sure that it was together properly.
The side adjuster was tightened to prior spec by tightening the side ring, then re-installing the keeper in the same spot it was prior to removal.

The gasket surface on the differential and the third member was cleaned.    New silicone sealant was applied and the the third member was re-installed.   The brake drum / backing plate assemblys were re-attached, the wheels were re-installed and the wires on the third member were plugged back in.   We added oil and went for a test drive.   

It took us about 5 hours total to do the install.

Back to the Misc. Install Page
Back to the Home Page