The Premier Power Welder was the largest of the three installed welders measuring in at 9 " long x 4 1/4" wide x 4" high.   If you include the voltage regulator on the side the box it 5 3/4" wide.

The wiring harness was plenty long, with all wires clearly labeled.   There was no problems trying to figure out where to hook things up!
The first thing we had to do was figure out where we were going to mount the box.  The vehicle is a 2001 Tacoma with the 3.4 V-6, so there was not a lot of room!   We found a place that we wanted to place it, right next to the battery, but that would take a slight modification.
insert battery tray info and pics here, show flip.
With the battery moved over and out of the way, we had room to mount the control unit right next to the battery.

The factory alternator was removed.   There is one long bolt that is removed in this picture (yellow arrow) that goes through the top of the alternator and acts as a pivot.

On the lower mount there is a nut that you remove.  You cant see it in the picture, its under the alternator, but the general location is shown by red arrow.

There is then then a long bolt that faces towards the side of the vehicle (the same way as the green arrow) that you can loosen or tighten to adjust the belt tension.   Once it is loose enough the belt will come off.

There is one large wire attached to the side of the alternator, and a plug in the back to remove.

Here you can see the factory alternator next to the new Premier Power Welder alternator.
With the alternator out, we took the wires in the area out of their looms.   This was done so that when we put it all back together, we could keep things nice and neat!

This is where we ran into a small problem, a problem with both the Premier Power Welder and the Mobi-Arc.

The instructions called for the ignition wire from the old alternator wiring harness (shown here removed) to be hooked to the brown colored wire on the Premier wiring harness.   They did not however tell us what color of the three wires present that this was!

The three wires are white, yellow and red.   As it turns out, the red wire is the ignition wire.   

Of the other two wires, the yellow wire is for the check alternator / battery dummy light on the dash, the white wire is an excite input to get the alternator started initially.  Both of these wires are no longer needed.

With this setup, you loose the check alternator / battery light on the dash, an issue that we will address later.

I measured out how much of the old wiring harness I would need and cut the factory plug off.  

The wires I would not be using were taped off.

  After thinking about it later, I thought of a much better way to do it. You can leave the factory plug in place and tap into the read wire with a line splice.  This way, if you wanted to go back to the factory alternator you could without having to re-attach the factory plug.

Oops! This could be a problem!   The nut that was on the main positive stud on the back of the new alternator was a uni-torque nut.   We put it on then had to take it back off, when if came off some of the threads came off with it.   We thought we may be able to put it back on again, but when we tried the stud snapped off.

Time for lunch!  Hey, you guys run and get pizza and a new carriage bolt!

For the record, I have personally never had good luck with uni-torque nuts.  I cant even begin to tell you how many times this sort of thing has happened to me!   I know others that have no problems with them, they just don't seem to like me!

Looks like we get to take the new alternator apart!

Hey, what popped apart and went "twang" when we took it apart!   That would be the brushes and the small springs that keep them tight against the commutator.

With the alternator apart, the carriage bolt was easily removed and replaced with a new one.   The repair took about 10 minutes.

With the brushes and springs back in place, a small item such as a paperclip or in our case a very small allen key can be inserted through the back of the rear housing to keep the brushes in place while the alternator is put back together.
With the alternator back together, we got ready to mount it up again and found out that the lower hole where it would pivot to adjust belt tension was threaded.   While it was the correct size for the bolt, we needed it just a simple hole.   Removing the threads was easy enough!
In this picture you can see the adjustment emchanism for the alternator and how belt tension is set.   On the V6 Tacoma, this mechanism is under the alternator.   This picture is of a 4cyl setup.

The new alternator was bolted into place, the belt installed and the belt tension set.


When we had the alternator apart, I re-clocked it so the power hookups on the rear would be in the optimal position.

The wires were attached to the back of the alternator.

At this point with the new alternator in place and hooked up, we hooked all the wires up and did a electrical check to make sure everything was ready to go.   Everything checked out so we continued on the installation.

We started working on the mounting bracket.   We found a hole in the frame and tapped it.   A second bolt that was up by the radiator was used and Tony started working on a mounting bracket.

While Tony had the lower panel off the Premier control box I got a shot of the guts of the unit.
In no time Tony had a simple mounting bracket made up.
The bracket used an existing bolt and a hole that we tapped.   Although the longer bar may look straight, there is actually a slight twist in it.

The bracket is installed with the lower half of the Premier control unit already bolted in place.   The control box is lower into place and the 4 allen screws are put in place to hold it together.

The next step was to start cleaning up all those wires.   I started tying them up and getting them back into the looms and taped up.

I decided that I was going to shorten some of the wires, but I would need some ring terminals so it would have to wait.

Everything was tied out of the way, the electrical checks were done again (just in case) and we got everything ready to head out for the day.

Just for fun, we decided to try it out and see how it would do.
Tony did a quick weld on a few pieces of scrap metal.... came out quite nice!
We had already installed the throttle control mechanism onto the fire wall using an existing bolt.   Now it was time to run the cable and hook it up.
I figured out where the cable was going to run, and put a piece of tape around the cable where it would need to be cut.
A small hole, just a bit larger than the inner control wire that would actually pull the throttle was drilled in the bracket that attached the cruise control cable to the throttle body.
A small notch was put into one of the little tabs that came off the throttle linkage (red arrow).
The cable was cut to the needed length.   Make sure to only cut the outer sheath and not the inner control cable!

Here you can see the end of the outer sheath after being cut with the inner cable just sticking out a little bit.

After the outer cable was the correct length, we measured and cut the inner cable to the length we would need.

The inner cable was fed through the small hole.   Two pieces of rubber tubing were cut open and put around the new control cable as well as the cruise control cable and the two were clamped together with a small hose clamp.

Note that the clamp and piece of tubing were put over the long threaded metal portion of the cruise control cable so as not to affect it during normal use.

The piece of hose had a section cut out so that it would fit around the cruise control cable and against the side of the new throttle control cable snugly.
Here is another picture of the new control cable next to the threaded metal portion of the cruise control cable.
With the two cables clamped together, the inner wire that would actually control the throttle was bent in a U shape so that when it was pulled it would hook the linkage where the notch was made.

A side view of the control cable, which you can see just under the yellow line.

This setup was very simple, will hold the throttle perfectly and not interfere with anything when not in use.

Because Premier gave us so much wire when in our installation we only needed a foot or less, I decided to shorten the wires.   All the wires were cut, then crimped and soldered into new terminals.   They were then covered in shrink wrap just like when they came from Premier.

In the premier instructions there is a large note that warns that if you cut the wiring harness or #6 cables you risk voiding your warranty.   Take extreme caution to make sure that if you do this that everything gets hooked up correctly again in the end!

This is the some of the excess wire that I removed.  

 I also cleaned up the wires coming to my battery.   I combined a few of my vehicle accessories into one larger ring terminal to help keep things neat.

When it was all finished, this is what the wiring looked like.   Everything is clean and out of the way.

The Premier Power welder was quick and easy to install.   For my installation under the hood on my 2001 Tacoma, the biggest problem to overcome was space.   Once we had the location figured out it was all down hill.   Now knowing where and how to mount it, I would guess that I could install it on another Tacoma in about 2-3 hours.   

Below is the wiring diagram.   All of the wires on the unit came with labels, and the hookup was straightforward.

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