Safari Snorkel Installation

First I want to say this... please be patient and let the images load.  I took a lot of pictures because cutting holes in a newer vehicle is a serious matter, and one that I don't take lightly!  You can be sure that I measured twice, then drilled once.

I started by reading the instructions and finding out what tools I would be needing.  Mostly I was interested in what size drill bits I would need, as I decided to buy new ones so that I would have sharp bits for the project.  The instructions called for 3 sizes of bits: an 8mm bit, a 16mm bit, and an 83mm bit.   These sizes translated most closely into 3-1/4" for the 83mm, 5/8" for the 16mm, and 5/16" (7.94mm) for the 8mm.

I looked over the parts to get an idea of how it was going to go, and then I started the installation.

Need the Mounting Template?

For some good information about Snorkels, check out this cool article from the December 2003 Four Wheel Adventures magazine, from 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers.

This is the entire package and everything that is in it.
Here is all of the small hardware that comes in the kit, along with the drill bits.  The 16mm bit is a small hole saw.  I went to Orchard Supply Hardware and they only had this size in a hole saw.  I would have preferred a regular bit.
This is the before picture....

The first step was to remove the fender flare, the inner fender liner and the factory intake extension.

The fender flare has a series of bolts that I removed, then it snaps into plastic snaps along the edge, visible in the picture.  Some of these snaps came off, and the others broke.  I had to make a run to the dealership to buy a few extras.  

This is inside the fender looking up at the factory intake. The extension that I already removed in this picture bolts to the two bolts towards the top center of the picture.  

I noted that there was some muddy water marks on the inside of the extension and in the elbow that goes into the engine compartment.   The snorkel will help to solve this kind of water and mud coming in when I play in the water, as well as move the air intake to higher ground to help keep dust out.

I then removed the radio antenna, as seen in this picture.

I covered the entire area with masking tape.  I have found that sometimes when you drill holes in painted metal, the paint can flake and chip off.  The masking tape helps to prevent this when drilling the holes, and when you remove it it takes some of the debris with it, and I also dab at the area and stick the rest to the tape before I dispose of it.

I installed the template that came in the kit to the area, and used a black marker to mark the locations of the holes.
Once the holes were marked, I removed the template.
I then used a small drill bit to drill pilot holes.
Using the pilot holes as guides, I then did the real damage... I drilled the final holes.

After removing the tape, the fender looked like this.

I then cleaned up the burrs and used touch up paint to cover the exposed metal and help prevent rust.  All of the holes are covered by the snorkel body, so you will not be able to see where the mounts are.

The next step was to fit the snorkel body onto the vehicle and mark where to drill the holes in the pillar.  Because the pillar is so narrow, this was the part that I was worried about most.

I marked the location of the holes and then drilled them.  I then cleaned the holes up and gave them a coat of paint.  

Even though the instructions don't say that it is necessary, when I snapped the small plastic grommets into the holes, I also applied a liberal amount of adhesive caulk.  I don't want to have any problems with water leaking...

I then fastened the pillar bracket to the pillar.  I also put adhesive caulk into the holes that the screws go into, just to seal it even more.
I now attached the main snorkel body to the fender, and then to the pillar bracket.  The top bolt was a little hard to get at, but not too bad.
The body is now attached.
This is the stock tube that goes in the fender.  The round opening on the left is where the air comes in.
This is the end where the air comes in.  You can see that dirty water has made it in this far before...

This is the end that attaches to the air box. Again, you can see that the dirty water has also made it to here.... not good!

I decided to wash the piece up, as I will be sealing the connections with a sensor safe sealant.

I took the air box out so that I could seal the connection to the air intake tubes.

Now that the air intake pipes were cleaned I installed the new hose that joins the bottom of the snorkel assembly to the stick air tube.

I then reassembled the rest of the air intakes.  At each joint, I used sensor safe RTV sealant to help make the connection water tight.

There are three types of snaps that you have to have to remove to get the fenders and inner fender guards off.  I managed to save some of them, but not all.  These are the three types.   The blue ones are very similar to the red ones, but they are slightly wider.

The Toyota part numbers are:

Black square snaps: 90189-06013 $.76 each

Red snaps: 90904-67036 $1.34 each

Blue snaps: 90904-67037 $1.34 each

Here you can see the order they go in on the fender.  You can also look on the fender flare and see what snap holes are wider.
Here it is all finished and back together.  
This is the view from the drivers seat.  Most of the snorkel is hidden and out of view, you only really see the top.
So there it is... the instructions say that it will take about 2 hours, and that is a fair estimate.  I think that I could have done it in less than 2 hours, but I did some little extra things that were not in the instructions.   It was a very straight forward job and all of the parts fit just as they should.
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