2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Revtec Suspension Lift Installation

For the new 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser comes a new lift from Revtec.   This kit lift the FJ 3 inches in the front, and 2 inches in the rear and is easy to install.   The kit took us about 2.5 hours to install, and now that we know how to do it it could be done in even less time!

Click HERE for the installation instructions.

Click HERE for all of the installation pictures.

Here are the contents of the kit.
Here is a shot of the stock suspension.   The instructions want you to take all sorts of things apart to complete the installation, but its really not necessary.
Remove the sway bar links.   You only have to remove the end that attaches to the swaybar as shown.

Remove the three nuts (green arrows) that hold the top of the strut assembly to the vehicle.   In this picture you can only see two, the third is behind the center of the strut.

DO NOT remove the center nut (red arrow) at this time!   Removing the center nut will release the spring and can seriously injure or kill you!

Remove the two bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame and move the bar forward and up out of the way.

Remove the single bolt that holds the bottom of the strut assembly to the lower control arm.

With the three top nuts and the bottom bolt removed, you can remove the strut from the vehicle.

The instructions say you also have to remove the front scrape plate (to remove the sway bar) and the tie rod ends.   We found that you can still remove the strut from the vehicle by turning and "threading" it out from between the tie rod and lower control arm.

The next step is to compress the springs so that the lift spacer can be installed.   

This is the hardest part by far of the lift kit.   If you are not comfortable with this, a local shop can do it for a small fee.

The spring compressor come in sets of two, but I always use 3 or 4.  Even with 3 or 4, by the time you are ready to install the spacer, the compressors are visibly bent under the strain!   I have had them break before on a number of occasions, and they really go flying when they do.   Make sure that you do not lean over the compressors during the compression process.  Always keep clear just in case!

When you install the lift spacer, you will remove the rubber isolator (still on the stock strut in this picture).   You will need to compress the spring enough that the spacer will fit between the spring and top plate.

As a safely precaution, do not remove the top plate until the spring is completely compressed.   This way, if a compressor should break, the spring will not go flying!   Also keep fingers out of the way, you would surely loose them if they were to get caught!

With the spring now compressed enough to get the spacer in, we removed the top plate.

The factory mounting studs are tapped out with a hammer and the new longer studs provided are installed into the top plate.

In this picture, we have already installed the new studs.

With the spacer installed, the top plate in re-installed the same way that it was taken apart.

In this picture, the top out extender has also been installed over the new longer studs.

When you are ready to release the pressure on the springs, make sure that the spring is in the proper place on the bottom mount as shown here.

As you release the pressure on the spring, also make sure that the strut and the top plate are lined up.   You want to make sure that the two studs on the top line up with the bottom mount on the strut where the larger bolt attaches to the lower control arm.

If you are off, you can always twist the strut once the top is bolted in place so that the lower bolt will line up, but it can be difficult!

Once the strut is done, it is ready to go back on the vehicle.
With the strut back in place, torque the three upper nuts and the lower bolt.

Re-attach the sway bar to the frame and the end links to the sway bar.

Install the wheels and you are done with the front!   During our install, it took about 1.5 hours to complete the front end.

Now its on to the rear!

The first step is to raise the rear of the vehicle and support it by the frame.   A good place to do this is where the lower link arms attach to the frame in front of the axle.   You will need to have the rear axle free to drop and hand, so you cannot support it by the axle.

Again we did things a bit different from the directions.   This saved a bunch of time.

Remove the rear wheels, but leave the axle supported at this time.   Remove the links that attach the rear sway bar to the frame. (green arrow).   Remove the rear shocks.

Remove the bolt that holds the rear brake line mounting bracket on the frame side.  Click HERE for a picture of this bracket after later modification.

Slowly lower the jack all the way and remove it.   With the axle now hanging, you can push down on the first side and remove the spring and upper bump stop cone.

Here is a shot of one of the rear springs and bump stop cone removed from the vehicle.   The bump stop cone just sits on the top of the spring.
Here you can see the Revtec spacer between the bump stop cone and the spring, ready to go back on the vehicle.

With the spacer and spring assembled, one person can push down on the end of the axle, while the second puts the spring back into place.   

This process is repeated for the second side.   If you have more difficulty with the second side, you can slightly jack up the opposite side.   Always start with the upper side in place, and then put the lower end into place on the axle.   If you need to, you can rotate the spring and screw the lower half into place.

We did not have any problems with this method, with two people it should not be difficult at all and saves much time.

Once the rear spring and spacer is in place, you are almost done!

Raise the rear axle back up with the jack.   With the axle back up in place, you can install the new rear shocks.

Make sure that you don't get your box wrench trapped on the end of the shock stud like we did in this time!   We had to loosen the stud to get enough clearance to get it out!

Once the shocks are in place, re-attach the rear sway bar.
We did notice that there was not much clearance between the bottom of the shock body and the mount.   We will have to keep an eye on this and make sure it does not become a problem.

The final step is to install the new longer bolt and spacers onto the rear brake line bracket.

In this picture, the factory bolt is already out.  The small green line represents where it would have been.

The new longer bolt and spacers are used to move the mounting bracket more towards the rear of the vehicle.   This will give a bit more slack for the rear brake lines to move.

That's it for the rear!   Install the tires, check that is properly torqued and you are ready to go for a test drive!

You will notice the increase in height the first time you climb in.   The ride is slightly stiffer, but it does not make it harsh by any means.

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